Monday 16th February Day 9 20150216

Day 9 – my departure from Tasmania and my return home. Naturally, as I had to be awake early, I woke at 3:30 and then 4:25, five minutes before the alarm went off. I was up early, drank the last of the breakfast drink I had with me, packed, showered and dressed. By 5:15 I was ready and checked (and doubled-checked) the room to ensure nothing was left behind. It took three trips down to take everything to the front door, the only entrance to use at this time of the day. After checking again that I had everything, I returned my key to the reception desk (no-one on at this time, but there were cleaners around). I took all outside, then had to make three trips to get everything to SUZI. I carefully fastened everything on, logged the odometer, then started her to warm her up while I fastened jacket, gloves and helmet on. It was easy to get out and less than two minutes later I was on the freeway to Devonport. At this time of the morning there was little traffic so I was in Devonport quickly. However, the freeway exit I took told me which way to the city centre, but not where the ferry terminal was. I rode slowly into town but no signs. I turned left to follow the river and … there was The Spirit of Tasmania visible – but on the other side of the river. After a quick U-turn and then a run south beside the river, I spied signs to the ferry. Great. Information when I no longer needed it. I followed the signs (and the traffic) down to the terminal, entered, got my tickets and then got directed into the “light-pole lane” – just me and SUZI. Right to the head of the queue. Other bikes came later, but they came in an empty traffic lane. We all chatted (the car next to me was from, yes, Queensland!) and by not long after 6:40 all the vehicles had unloaded. The vehicle loadmaster in the park then told us we were good to go. I had started SUZI as soon as he walked over so I went first. I rode on to the ship (G3) and then had to stop and turn as I was going to be loaded right at the rear. I stopped, grabbed the tank bag and left SUZI unlocked and in gear, handlebars just over he lashing points. I went straight up to Deck 7, but found that there were very few on the ship already, so moved everything up to the table at the port stern position on Deck 9. I settled in, looked around and got a pie for breakfast (on Deck 7, a couple recognised me from the Wineglass Bay lookout). The ship sailed early – at 8:30 she started moving and by 8:45 she had turned in the river and was on her way out. I took some photos and returned to my place. Not long after, I was greeted by Jeremy (Richard Milne’s son), his sister Candace and her family. By a real quirk of fate, we had all independently booked our passage and then were on the same voyage. We chatted, the children became restless and soon it was just Jeremy and me. The family popped back every so often and we chatted a little about their trip over to Perth. Despite being a nine-hour trip, the time went fairly quickly. At just before 6 the ship docked and we were called down. I got everything ready, made sure all was present and correct and waited for a lane to be free to drive off. And so I did – only to realise that I had left my sunglasses behind, but I think they were on the packs – so they would have fallen off coming across the gridded exit, and been crushed by the following cars and caravans. And so I drove into the lowering sun with no sunglasses. The traffic was very heavy and so it took over half an hour to get to Westgate. After that it was a reasonable run to the other side of the bridge and then a good run home. I rode in, dismounted, parked SUZI and started to unpack. Tassie trip over! Summary 1581 km. Bridport, Pyengana, Bicheno, Lake St Clair, Waratah, Ulverstone for accommodation. SUZI – no problems and all luggage items used and useful. Mislaid – soap container, sun glasses. Lot of fun, interesting riding moments, met most of Queensland’s population on holidays in Tassie. Very slow touring compared to in DOUG, but meet many people and find out more information.

Sunday 15th February Day 8 20150215

Day 8 – my last day in Tassie. I woke up during the night thinking it was dawn, but there was a security light on outside – and stray light was coming in through my window. Finally I did wake at 6:30, set the alarm for 4:30 tomorrow morning (don’t want to miss the boat) and got up for my shower. Very soft water, very warm. I got dressed and had orange juice for breakfast, Then I went down to find the garage open, so I wheeled SUZI out. The owner spoke to me as I went upstairs to get both bags (on and fastened), the tank bag and helmet and finally me in my jacket. SUZI started straight away, I logged the odometer and, after saying farewell to Wayne and Bronwyn, I was off. I had intended to have a hamburger for breakfast as the takeaway just down the road, but despite the notice in the front of the store, they weren’t on the menu yet. So I headed off after getting the Mercury, crossing two intersections and finally settling down on the road to Burnie. I felt sure I’d get something there. I arrived in Burnie and looked around. MacDonald’s (no thanks, not that desperate yet) was the only place I saw open, so I headed further down into Penguin. Two takeaways open within ten metres of each other, so I ordered a hamburger and went to look to see if I could find a souvenir penguin clock for Elizabeth. No luck. So I rang about accommodation – first cheap one had no vacancies. I had my (obligatory) photo taken with the giant penguin and then headed off. Every place I passed displayed a “No Vacancy” sign, so I tried my luck in Ulverstone. The first pub I saw advertised rooms starting from $69 so I thought I’d spoil myself for the last night. Success! And the room was available immediately, too. However another fellow, a Kiwi form Perth, had to wait until at least 2 to get his room. I found where it was and then unloaded my gear. I decided to ride along the coast for about an hour or so, seeing the sights and then turn around and come back. I started, then ran into a group of cyclists who recommended having a look at Wynyard, so my tour extended that far. The coastal scenery is very good, but I wonder why a coastal tourist train can’t run – the rail is right on the coast and offers more spectacular views than the road for less concentration. I stopped at a few points and took some photos, but not that many. When I got to Wynyard, I went to the Tourist Information Centre, bought a postcard for Abby (but she won’t get it until at least Wednesday) and then looked at a vintage car collection. Beautifully restored and very interesting, as there was a plate next to each one (but I didn’t photograph each of the plates). I left to find it had been raining, but it was stopped now. I saw quite a few other motorcyclists in Wynyard. I drove back on the main road – a lot faster, but no real scenery. Within a short time I was back at the hotel in Ulverstone. After taking the tank bag and helmet up, I walked a few streets. I had some chips and then a pie (lunch and tea combined). There were interesting fact plates on some of the buildings which I read while eating. I took a few photos while walking, then found trees and posts that had been yarn-bombed, so I photographed them. I returned to my room, realised it was later than I though at changed for bed. I had a cup of tea, some biscuits and watched a movie on TV. I snoozed, then realised it was after the time I had set to go to bed (I have to be up at 4:30 tomorrow) so I went to sleep.

Saturday 14th February Day 7 20150214

Day 7 began for me at about 4 when I awoke to hear heavy rain. This did not augur well for the day – sightseeing or riding. I did feel better, though, when I awoke at 6:25 to hear – silence. I got up at 6:30 and, quietly getting my clothes which I had laid out last night, I tried to quietly open the door and head off for a shower. At the ablution block, I put my $1 coin in and the shower started – no way to adjust the temperature or the water flow. Cool water and I started, but was dreading it. Then the water went to just on the hot side of warm and it was enjoyable. I finished soaping up and rinsing off in case I ran out of hot water, but this didn’t happen for another few minutes. I dried and dressed, then went back to start getting breakfast ready. Richard (from the Queensland walkers) was already up, so I offered him some teabags for the group. Then I went back and changed into bike gear and started to pack. Fred was awake so I didn’t have to worry about being quiet. I looked for SUZI’s key so I could log the day’s distance and couldn’t find it. Slight panic until I found it – still in the ignition! The reading was logged, I finished packing and then finished breakfast. All gear was fastened on to SUZI and I rode around to the car park. But the rain had started up again, so I hoped the cruise was in a covered vessel. I went to confirm my booking, but the clerk last night hadn’t put my name on the list. There was a cancellation, so I was on anyway. I arrived at the wharf (jetty) at 8:50, in plenty of time. Three other couples were on, so I thought there was plenty of room, but no – they had to pick up walkers. We set off at 9 and headed over to Pumphouse Point. The original pumphouse has been leased to a consortium and they have put extra accommodation on shore. After being waved at ($200 per night) we moved onto Echo Point, where we berthed briefly, a German couple got off to walk back to the centre and we all had a little trek (about 50 metres), took photos and were quickly back on the boat. There was slight drizzle, but low clouds hid most of the beauty. Then we went to the creek at the top of the lake and picked up quite a few walkers and their packs. One was supposed to have had a broken ankle (a student from Armidale NSW), but it looked and behaved more like a bad sprain. Once they were on we had a quick trip back to the centre. Passengers were off and then the packs were unloaded. I visited the WC and ran into Fred again, so we said goodbye. I considered whether to put my rain jacket on – and did. The run from Lake St Clair to Derwent Bridge and then Queenstown was interesting. A winding road, wet, and an assortment of road kill meant I had to take it easy on every curve. For most likely the first time, I went at the advised speed limits. Fortunately I was able to find either exits or laybys when vehicles came up behind me, and on the rare times neither were available, broken lines appeared and I slowed and went right over to the left. On the lookout outside Queenstown, a number of passengers on a tour minibus thanked me, so I had a chat and hope to get a sponsorship for my ride from at least one. Then I rode into Queenstown with my rain jacket off. I filled up with fuel and parked near a little park, then looked for the papers and lunch. No luck with the papers, and not much more with lunch. I bought a pie and sausage roll; neither was really satisfactory, but I had to discard the sausage roll. I bought a drink, then oiled the chain. Oil is not good – it was thrown all over the wheel. I’ll discard it once I’m home. I spoke to a policeman about him looking like a schoolchild and he thanked me – 18 years out of school for him! I also spoke to an English couple (he owns a Triumph Tiger) and three girls from France (two from Paris, one from Nice). I left Queenstown in sunshine. I decided to head north, so my first destination was Rosebery. Here I got a Mercury, but no Examiners left. Easier to buy a Melbourne paper! Rosebery was a nice little place, but I pushed on. Little did I know that roadworks left over the weekend (it’s Saturday) would turn into kilometres of near glassy slipperiness as clay mixed with the rain. Car drivers wanted to stick to the middle of the road, which left only the left wheelpad for me – not the best option on bends and curves as it left me nowhere to manoeuvre. The rain had restarted, so I pulled over in a rest stop to put the rain jacket back on. The husband of a couple (yes, they were from Queensland) commented on my size and SUZI’s size. He had a road bike (1100 cc). When I mentioned I would be looking for a place to stay because of the rain and temperature, he suggested Waratah, off on the road to Savage River and Carrina. I turned done there, found the pub, and at $49 the deal was done. The publican had sold and owned bikes and was interested in my Andy Strapz gear, so I showed him what I had and demonstrated its usefulness. I unloaded SUZI and then went for a drive around the town. I found out it’s population was 260, the caravan park was just that (no on-site accommodation) and there was a beautiful little park and lake (plus a hydro and smelting history). I went to park SUZI on the rear, but a car had already parked there. The publican’s wife urged me to park in the garage and then showed me her new Harley. I changed in my room, went down and ordered tea and then ate it with a Queensland couple, Wayne and Bronwyn, both retired. We swapped notes on driving, visiting places in Australia and finally that most other people just don’t have the same concept of distance that Australians do. We parted, I went to my room, rang Fran, changed for bed, wrote up my blog and then went to sleep.

Friday 13th February Day 6 20150213

Day 6 – I woke up at about 6 but didn’t get up until 6:30. I went to get the soap and … alas, I had left my soap and soap container in the shower. I looked – the soap was still there, but the container was not. First loss of the trip. I had my shower and changed into cycle gear, then had breakfast. This was tea, biscuits and the remainder of Coke and orange juice. I have to keep up my fluids. Everyone else in my dorm didn’t arise until after I had packed, but the others (Christina, Kilem, Mia and Matt) were up having breakfast at the same time as I was. We chatted a little at breakfast, then I moved SUZI around to get a clear route to leave, and they all left while I was packing SUZI up. Matt got a ride with Christina (he is touring by hitchhiking). I decided against putting the liner in my jacket – my pants are still okay. I got out and set the SatNav for petrol – and it took me to a closed servo, but I knew there was one further on, so I persevered and found one a further 500 metres on. I filled up, then left and found I was heading in the wrong direction, so took a tour through town until I was on the road south. I knew the road until the Coles Bay turnoff, so that was good and the road was okay from then on, until I turned inland for Campbell Town. On all the roads, there was a lot of road kill: spotted quolls, wombats, possums and wallabies and pademelons. I felt rather cold and found the temperature had dropped from 19°C to 14°C, but it wasn’t simple to stop (no level patches and no sealed rest areas or laybys) to put the jacket liner in. By the time I stopped at Campbell Town, it was too warm for the liner anyway. I parked, walked up and down most of the main street, bought the papers and then went to the bakery for hot chocolate and fruit bread (but sourdough? Please, give me a choice!) while trying to do part of the Sudoku. When I left, I ws gong to visit the historic R.C. church but … there was a funeral in progress, so I gave that a miss. As a note for the future, the pub has a single for $50! I then went to head inland again to get across to Queenstown. One of the towns I went through was Creey, apparently the trout-fishing capital of Tasmania. All the street signs were in the shape of trout! As the height of the road rose, the temperature dropped. Every time I wanted to stop to put the liner in, there was no place to stop. Then when I met a road junction, I turned the wrong way and only found out when I was heading southeast instead of southwest. So I turned around and found that the SatNav was telling me Queenstown was over 200 kilometres away. But I knew there was a road to cut across, but apparently the SatNav didn’t. I continued on and eventually found it, even though there was no warning notice and the SatNav didn’t tell me it was there. I turned onto it and suddenly the SatNav realised it was a road and altered the distance to a respectable 38 km to Derwent Bridge. The road itself evidently hadn’t been graded it a long time, but even that would have been bearable, but … vehicles coming the other way would not stay to the left. They all wanted to sit on the crown of the road, which pushed me over almost off the road on my left. Plus, none would slow down, so I was covered in dust every time a car passed. However, the road became sealed after 20 kilometres so conditions became more bearable. On the Lyell Highway I watched out for the “Wall in the Wilderness”. I found it and turned in (full points, as they posted the entry prices at the gate), parked, paid my entry fee and had to make a dash to the loos – drinking a lot means you also have to get rid of some – and then had a leisurely look at the sculptures. They are really good and very effective, and well worth the entry fee. I set off after chatting to a young fellow who was looking for a motorcycle to tour on. I went through Derwent Bridge and turned off to go to the Lake St Clair National Park Visitor Centre. It was nearly 4, so after I saw the price of hostel rooms, I enquired (yes, they had some but look first) and then booked a bed for the night. I unpacked (it looked as though I might have a room to myself) and put some drinks in the fridge, then found that I was sharing with a chap on a pushbike. I chatted to a party of four bushwalkers from, (yes!) Queensland and then went to the restaurant for tea. I ended up sitting with the people who were parked next to SUZI. They are from … Queensland. The state must be empty. I went back to the kitchen in the hostel block and met Fred from the Netherlands, who is my roommate. I had a few drinks, wrote up my blog and after a bit of a chat, went to bed.

Thursday 12th February Day 5 20150212

Another day – so Day 5 dawned as I realised I would never be able to get everything done on this rather relaxing ride through part of Tasmania. I stirred when I heard the tour group arise, but I just rolled over and … when I woke up, and got up, only the Danish chap and myself were around. I had a breakfast of tea, biscuits and noodles and then showered and dressed. At this stage only a girl was around. You’d never guess where she’s from (well, apart from Germany). She’s a Ph.D. student at the Vet School at Werribee and lives in Werribee! I can’t believe how many people I’ve run into! We swapped notes on Werribee and then swapped notes on today – yes, you guessed it, we’re both going to Coles Bay and then the Freycinet National Park on walks. By the time I had everything packed and ready to go, she was well and truly off. I left just before 9 and had a good run down to the National Parks office. I was good and purchased a day pass – and the ranger reminded me to secure my belongings (I told her I had a PacSafe and she said her dad had one too). Then I went down to the parking are for the Wineglass Bay tracks and parked. After setting everything up, changing and then securing all in my PacSafe, I found I could have parked right next to the toilet block (where I changed) instead of walking over a hundred metres. With my goods all secured, I began walking with the camera around my neck, maps, drinks and chocolate in a bag and tissues in my pocket. I signed to go on the walk and carried Spotty (my Gen3 Spot Tracker) with me, so everyone could verify where I had been. On the way up to the lookout I looked for quirky or different things. Many rock formations caught my interest. They’ll be up on Flickr as soon as I’m home. However I did manage the odd occasional chat with others walking up. English tourists were in the majority, with Germans, French and Americans and then the odd Lithuanian. One American couple were from Oregon and he was a photographer. I took group photos at the Wineglass Bay lookout for some Germans and some English. It really does look like the brochures. While there I decided against walking to the beach there or doing the round trip (five hours) as, although I completed the uphill walk is under the stated 45 minutes, I realised I was not fit for walking (lifting up motorcycles, yes, but walking, no). As I walked down I struck up a conversation with an English couple on their first trip to Tasmania. The husband had worked in WA in the late 1970s as a chain-man, on a surveyor’s party. He spoke of many places in WA where he passed through or went to work and really loved it. We swapped notes on the many changes since then – and he watched “Red Dog” and it brought back memories of his time in the north. After I returned to SUZI and regarbed in motorcycle gear, I directed a few tourists to the beginning of the track. A few asked did I work there. I should have said, “Teacher habit – can’t get out of the habit of telling others where to go.” I left not long after midday and thought I’d try the convenience store in Coles Bay to get something light for lunch. No luck! As I didn’t want to do a “food crawl” of Coles Bay, I decided to head back to Bicheno. However I did notice English tourists parking on the wrong side of the road. I wonder how many of them get tickets for it, ignore the ticket and then end up paying because the rental company pays and then debits their card (plus a handling fee, of course). I had a very good run back to Bicheno, parked SUZI at the hostel and changed, then got chips at the Caravan Park Takeaway opposite and walked into town. I purchased the papers and then tried to do the Sudoku (my mind must be concentrating on other things as I’m not having a good run on finishing them). After half an hour I asked about the route up to Whalers Lookout and then walked that track. In fact there is a round track, taking you to Whalers Lookout on the town side and Governor’s Lookout on the ocean side. Two National parks rangers passed me and said the round trip was worthwhile (it was). On the way up some Victorians asked about the track and I gave them the full rundown and they also commented that I must work for the National Parks – perhaps a part-time job opening? I went back to the hostel after doing some shopping (milk, ham, soft drink) and found a young Frenchman settled in. He’s doing a Ph.D. in glaciology and has just returned from Antarctica working at the Franco-Italian base there. We had a chat and I recommended Matthew Reilly’s “Ice Station” to him (even though the French are the baddies in one part and the hero takes on a French submarine single-handed). A number of others came in during the afternoon – two girls from South Korea and a couple from Taiwan. Three girls at least in my dorm tonight. I will get to bed early tonight as I have to head inland tomorrow and clock up some distance so I can end up seeing at least more than a half of what I planned. It’s very quiet in here! The French chap went out for a walk and I accompanied him. Quite interesting hearing about the countryside of France from a local and what he does. We walked along the beach, then across the jetty when … a missing plank was my (actual) downfall. I went right through but stopped before I hit the sand. I was wearing jeans, so no visible would to my leg and just a bit of skin off my elbow (where I landed on it). We continued walking, he bought some boutique beers to have with his tea and we went back to the hostel. I ended up chatting with Christina (the Ph.D. student from Werribee), Kilem and Mia (also from Germany) and Matt (the French glaciology Ph.D. student). Apparently the women who rebuilt buildings after the war were named “brick-women” and they did a lot of such work (I mentioned the church in Warzburg). Kilem and Mia come form the old GDR and there was a very large church rebuilt after the wall came down in Dresden. The British airmen who bombed it paid for the new cross on top. The four, who are sharing a dorm, then proceeded to have a huge tea – but as they had been walking most of the day, I suppose they needed it. Christina ended up doing the five hour (Wineglass Bay lookout, Wineglass Bay beach and return via the Hazards) walk. After a time I retired to go to bed (about 9) and was off to sleep before any of the others came in. I heard them, but did not really wake up (the beauty of habitually going to sleep listening to an iPod so other noises are drowned out).

Wednesday 11th February Day 4 20150211

Another day dawned – Day 4. Light seeping in from outside woke me at about 6:30, but I resisted temptation and instead rose at just before 7. I had to wait a few minutes for the shower, but it was worth the wait – hot, soft water. Then dressed, I had a cup of tea and some noodles for breakfast – lightening the load on SUZI and making sure I used up what I had brought with me. I sat outside and slowly drank and ate, as well as write up my diary and speak briefly to the others staying here. The other group were preparing to go, so I offered to take a group photo. After the usual shenanigans, I took one and took one for them on Jenny’s camera. They started to drift off, so I pushed SUZI over so it would be quicker to load her. I chatted with the barmaid (Rowena) and her three-year-old (“three” is only three on fingers if you use the thumb and two fingers). Finally I was loaded, checked everything and then headed off at about 8:45 with Spotty working away. I passed the others stopped at the dairy / cheesemaker just down the road. Within a few minutes I was on the Tasman Highway again and heading off towards St Helens. When I got there I passed the Tourist Information Centre before I realised, so I ended up taking a scenic route out of town. As luck would have it, it took me along to Binalong Bay and the Bay of Fires. I stopped there to take some photos and asked some tourist, “If it’s been a long bay, is it short now?” He retorted that he wondered what upset the children in the area as he had seen, “Children Cross Here” on a sign. We called it quits then. I posted a card to Marilla from here, so I wonder if it will get a “Binalong” postmark. Back in St Helens I called into the Tourist Bureau and got a pamphlet on a backpackers in Bicheno. I decided I would stay two nights in Bicheno and ride down to Coles Bay and walk the track to the top, to see Wineglass Bay, on the second day. The first day I would just walk around the town and see what was on offer. I rang and secured a booking for tonight and tomorrow night. Then I texted the family, got a drink and the papers, sat down and read a little, took some photos and headed off. The road from St Helens to Bicheno passes generally along the coast and there are some very pleasant little settlements along the way. I called in to a scenic lookout to take some photos and nearly got stuck as SUZI slowly went into the uncompacted gravel. As I was leaving, two other motorcyclists (also from Melbourne) stopped and apparently they are planning to spend the evening at Bicheno. I also called into some settlements and one had a house with a grass roof under construction. I arrived at Bicheno and quickly found the hostel. Getting SUZI in was interesting as the driveway is canted with the land, not horizontal. However I got in and booked in (the girl on reception recognised me from the motorcycle), then unloaded in an eight-bed dorm (at the moment, only one other male, a guy from Denmark (near Koge and near Herning) is in there. I changed and then wandered out and found the takeaway at the caravan park had pies (they also list potato cakes on the menu, so I’ll try some tonight). I wandered around the town, got a cold drink and sat in the park to read a little while drinking it. Then I visited the Tourist Bureau (found out there’s a little motorcycle museum in town), walked down to the beach and along the beach while taking photos and back up the main street. I called in to look at a little gallery and there were some excellent art works on show. At Pork’s Place café I had an ice cream and then strolled along to the museum. Although it’s quite small (I would have missed it unless I had known of its presence) there were quite a few bikes in there and most were immaculately restored. The owner does the restorations at home, but does motorcycle work at the same site as the museum. Good to know if I need something. I went back to the hostel, changed bunks (I now picked one with power points next to it), sat in the lounge and wrote up part of my diary for today. A group of young blokes on bikes came in, so I chatted with them a little, but we knew no-one or anything in common. The camera batteries are on charge and I’m just about to read the newspapers. After trying to do the Sudoku, I gave up and went out to get some potato cakes for tea. They were the reconstituted type, so I’ll give them a miss tomorrow night. I walked down to the blowhole and got some good photos there, walked back … and found the hostel full of backpackers on a tour. From only two in the room, it’s now full! Plus they’re all chatting away while lil’ ol’ me is just trying to get some Internet stuff done and then get to bed early. iPod earphones on tonight to drown out the noise. Well, the Danish chap and myself went to bed early. I’ve no idea of what time most of the tour group went to bed or got up, but when I dropped off to sleep no-one else had.

Tuesday 10th February Day 3 20150210

Today Day 3 dawned. While I was up at 6:30 and showered and dressed (in street clothes), it was reluctantly. Things were very quiet at breakfast, with only a “local” girl also up. I checked, but all the motorbikes (from Victoria) had gone. Only the couple from New Caledonia and the English lady remained. I packed, then changed into bike gear, packed SUZI and then checked everything and was off about 8:20. Arrived at Scottsdale around 8:50 and found the Tourist centre after getting newspapers. Had a good chat and look around there, then availed myself of the free offer and had a hot chocolate (and paid for the raisin bread – nothing else to eat now until an early tea). Walked back to SUZI and a local on a new trail bike pulled up to swap notes on bikes. I then went down to the Tourist Centre again and checked email and Facebook, then wrote up my early diary and also wrote on a postcard. I left the town after filling with petrol and headed southwest. The first town along the way was Branxholm. I stopped there for a drink, to post one postcard and to write and post another. I don’t know if the letter receiver had much business, but I had to push the cobwebs out of the way to get the postcards in. I also noted the town had single accommodation at the pub for $40 a night. Then it was on to Derby. One failing in all these towns was a lack of parking places which were horizontal – or even, failing that, at lest planar. Every time I went to rest SUZI, there would either be an excessive lean to the left (which meant I worried she was going to fall down, and when she didn’t, whether I was going to be able to swing her upright to take off) or an excessive lean to the right (which meant a breath of air and SUZI would fall over with no stand to support her). In Derby it meant letting SUZI roll back until she hit the curbing of the lower footpath. She actually stopped when the luggage hit the fence! I went down to visit the Tin Dragon display. It was well worth the entry, with good static displays and an excellent short film. I spent about 40 minutes there. When I came out, I looked for somewhere to get a pie for lunch – but in the whole town of Derby, there was not a pie in captivity! A helpful assistant in one shop suggested I visit Winnaleah, a few kilometres down the road and a few kilometres off the road. I did walk further down (the whole main street really, a full hundred metres) to see if she was right – and she was. I got back on SUZI and we headed off to Winnaleah. At first it looked hopeless as there only appeared to be houses, but a left turn took me into the main street – a rural supplies dealer, a pub and a general store selling hot food. Resigned to the fact that there would be no level ground, I placed SUZI so that stability criteria were met and dismounted. In the store and – no pies! Two sausage rolls were left, so that was lunch. I ate them there while chatting to the assistant there. It transpired she was a local, had gone to school there (200 students, stable over the last 20 or so years) and had completed her education in Launceston and returned home to work. Most of the young people found some form of employment locally although there were no industries or value-adding to crops grown locally. Some specialty foods were starting to be grown but some ideas, such as growing trees to promote truffle growing, or to grow saffron or radish for wasabi, had not progressed beyond discussion. She rued the fact that the school had no music program beyond primary lessons, so to learn an instrument a private tutor had to be employed at home. As I left, a local came in and bought the only food left, two curry pies. We chatted for a moment and I headed off. To get to the “Pub in the Paddock” I simply had to continue along the Tasman Highway (A3). I did that and then the road, after I left the junction where I had entered it yesterday, became quite windy and ascending. I was going okay until … I saw a tell-tale change of colour of the road surface and felt SUZI’s back tyre lose traction in a patch of diesel. It only lasted a moment but it made the rest of the ride a concentrated effort as I looked for any other diesel as overspill or oil dropped from the sump of log trucks as they climbed the often steep grades. At some points and on some corners it was difficult to discern the difference between rubber dropped from cars cornering too vigorously, oil or wear of the stones in the bitumen so the subsurface slick of the bitumen was visible. Eventually I got to Pyengana, turned off and soon (although I feared I had missed it) I came across the celebrated “Pub in the Paddock”. There is an open shed for parking motorcycles and as I neared it, it was full! Visions of mishandling or dropping SUZI came into my mind, but I managed to park under and safely. However the gravel surface allowed the side stand to bury itself in the ground and I moved her once I was off so there was no danger of her toppling while I was away. I went in and arranged my booking and got the room key (Room 3, bottom bunk), and then took my luggage in. I spoke to the bikie group who all came from …, you guessed it, Werribee. Small world. They left and there was another couple in the bar. I spoke to them and they came from … Wycheproof. Beau Durie was apparently driving buses while I was teaching there. We spent some time reminiscing about people we knew in common. I headed off to St Columba’s Falls (the pub’s address is actually 250 St Columba’s Falls Road, Pyengana) along a narrow and winding road. I wish it had centre markings, for on my way up, a SUV coming down was having trouble judging a corner and I was almost stopped on the edge of the bitumen, in the middle of the curve, while he drifted over to within a few centimetres of me – not conducive to carefree riding, I can assure you. I arrived at the parking area for the falls walk and, yes, you guessed it, no flat surfaces. I had to park near the pedestrian entry, as I didn’t want to park too close to a car only to find it had reversed into SUZI in order to come out onto the roadway. Now, dear reader, you will know I wear all the gear, all the time (ATGATT) and am grateful to do so after my “off” north of Broken Hill. However, ATGATT is not great for walking. In fact, given relatively high humidity and fairly steep grades, it is terrible for walking. Going to the falls (good view, not a great deal of flow) was reasonable (took a picture for a Japanese couple there, but a Spanish mother refused my offer as she didn’t want to be in the family photo, and the children laughed), however the return was another story – a story of gentle effort, then serious effort and finally concerted effort as I had to take a few moments rest breaks. Once SUZI and I were reunited, I had to cool down before I could subject myself to a mini-sauna, i.e. put on my helmet and gloves and do up my jacket. A gentle ride for the nine kilometres back saw me ready to have a light snack for tea and intending to retire. However, the group booking for the night was arriving. I engaged three in conversation while finishing putting stuff into my room. They were a like-minded group formed from people who had gone on 4WD expeditions and now they travel together for enjoyment. Now you would think that running into people from Werribee and Wycheproof was enough coincidence for the day. But no – more was to come. We were chatting away and one of the party (Keith) had been an apprentice at Laverton in 1963-1967. We knew of the US 57th Weather Reconnaissance U2 Squadron and a few apprentices and others from that time. So the rest of the evening was spent in their company, and a fine group (from Queensland, but I won’t hold that against them) they were. One of their number, Peter, ran 4WD expeditions and tag-alongs , so memories of “demanding” customers were dredged up to the amusement of all, including me, who had no knowledge of Ralph and Margaret, AKA Rat and Maggot. Alas, all good things must come to an end, so I retired to consummate the marriage of works, deeds and knowledge (that is, this record of events) and within half an hour they had all retired to … sleep and rest. By 10:30 I had finished so I relaxed and succumbed to the arms (and charms) of Morpheus and thus was soon asleep (yes, I can type in my sleep).